The novelist Thomas Wolfe famously said “You can’t go home again.” Only I just did. From the ages of 9 to 13 I lived in Oslo, and last weekend I went back to the city for the first time since we moved away.
We lived in the hilly northwest suburb of Holmen, in a newbuilt house at the top of a steep cul-de-sac. It was an upside down house with open plan reception space on the upper level and a wraparound balcony looking out onto the Oslo fjord; both groovy and modern concepts in the early 70s. Behind the house was virgin forest, bursting with wild blueberries and populated with elk, which would wander down into our garden and munch on the bark of the silver birch trees. At the bottom of the road a bus stopped every morning and picked up my brothers and me, delivering us about twenty minutes later to Oslo’s only international school. At break time we were served delicious cocoa from an urn, and then hopped out of the classroom window and tobogganed straight down a snowy bank into the playground.
A weekends we would get together with family friends and have huge ski-ing or skating parties, or my father and I would hike up the hill, armed with one thermos of soup and another of whisky-laced coffee, and watch the ski-jumping at Holmenkollen. Christmas brought a round of glamorous embassy parties, prayers with the royal family in the king’s private chapel and presents specially shipped out from Hamleys. Summer weekends were about barbecuing and boating on the fjord, or heading up north to the lakes near Lillehammer where we built a raft from logs and sailed it on the icy water. Do I hear you say “idyllic childhood”? It most certainly was.
Oslo now has a metro system, and Holmen is about 10 minutes along the line that heads west. In London that wouldn’t get you past Notting Hill, but Oslo is such a small city that 10 minutes take you into a snowy wasteland, barely penetrable by car. I’d looked up my old address on Google Maps, but once I got off the train everything was just a blur of white punctuated with wooden houses. It was several degrees colder than in the city and the snow was so deep there was no sense of road, let alone pavement. And it was utterly silent with the muffled hush that snow brings. All of which was deeply disorientating. I trudged in what I hoped was the right direction, looking for familiar landmarks, but didn’t recognise anything. My hands were so cold, even with gloves, that I was about to turn back and head for the station when I realised I was standing at the foot of the cul-de-sac. Two children with sledges were sliding down it, just as my brothers and I used to. And there it was.

As I walked towards it, I felt a huge lump in my throat and tears pricking in my eyes. Some of the forest has been cleared to make way for apartment blocks, but otherwise it’s exactly the same. Even the name on our neighbours’ mailbox. They had a lovely golden retriever and a hot teenage son who was my first pre-pubescent crush. Only he’ll be a pot-bellied, balding 50 year old now.
The tears were happy tears. I had been happy living in Norway, and to me it was simply…home. But could I live there now? Absolutely not. Three and a half decades stand between me and that version of myself; years filled with marriage, motherhood, divorce, the life of a working single parent, triumphs and disasters in both career and personal life. I am not the same. And that was exactly what Thomas Wolfe meant. I could go back to the house where I lived as a child, but I could never return to the home of my idyllic childhood.
Filed under: Uncategorized
by Carrie
5 Comments »